More for convenience of timing than for anything, I decided to take an overnight bus to and from Kyoto last Saturday. Â This meant getting to Shinjuku station for an 11:50pm departure, arriving at Kyoto station at 6:50am the next morning, spending the day in Kansai, and then hopping on an 11:00pm bus to come back up. Â The round trip bus tickets cost less than a one way bullet train ticket, so this seemed a reasonable way to save some yen. Â
I remember from my student days that taking the overnight bus meant being cold, uncomfortable, and grumpy for the remainder of the day. Â Yet something in me wanted to do it again. Â I think it’s the same thing that makes people step off of cliff edges. Â Anyhow – while I was prepared for the cold, and braced against the uncomfortable with three layers of clothing and one layer of noise cancelling headphone, I had completely forgotten about the rest stops. Â
When I got to Shinjuku on Friday night, I was a little worried. Â I had ten minutes before my bus left, and the area on the map, while precise, also seemed to be the departure point for twenty other overnight buses. Â Eek. Luckily the company I was using had lots of staff in red jackets waving signs around. Â As I boarded bus 36, I realized (yet again) that my Japanese has a ways to go. Â When booking my tickets online, I thought that I’d booked a better bus, a bus with 4-(unit of measurement) wide seats, versus 3 (unit of measurement) wide seats. Â Unfortunately, the unknown unit of measurement WAS “seat.” Â So I’d booked myself on a bus with four seats to a row, instead of three. Â (Just enough rope…) Oops.Â
So after settling in next to some guy with a wanna-be afro, who thankfully wasn’t smelly or large, because there wasn’t an armrest between us, I sealed myself away with my sweater hood and headphones.Â
Until, of course, a loud voice interrupted my nap with “HAI, IMA KARA KYUKEI JIKAN NI NARIMASUUUU,” accompanied by the hissing as the bus sat down and swallowed a blast of midnight air. Â Apparently it’s unthinkable that on an overnight bus people would be sleeping, hence, stopping every two hours for a 20 minute break is standard operating procedure. Â Somehow I forgot about that.Â
At any rate, the trip back from Kyoto was a lot more pleasant, and actually – the layers and headphones were pretty reasonable in helping me to get some sleep.  I was either overjoyed to see the Tanakas, or I was actually better rested than the junior year Mt. Fuji trek from hell, because I wasn’t grumpy at all, even at the museum!  Yes, that’s right.  Even at the ETHNOLOGY museum.  Mmhm. Â
After loitering in the warmth of my homestay family’s house (ah, memories), I was sleep deprived and distracted enough that I almost went the wrong way transferring trains back to Kyoto station. Â This meant that I was almost late to my bus! Â It was the same deal with 20 random buses, except this time I was returning on a different company, and I couldn’t find it. Â After asking another random bus company, I did find the table, hopped on my bus with a minute to spare, and noticed that I was the last one on. Â This time, though, as the driver pointed me towards my companion-for-the-next-six-hours, he asked if we were friends. We were not. Â After “hmm…please wait a minute,” Â I was treated to a row all of my own, in the front! So nice. Â After settling in there, kicking my feet to the side to take advantage of this luxurious surplus of space…I noticed that I’d missed a phone call. Â Checking my messages revealed that the bus company had called me five minutes prior, because they were concerned that I hadn’t checked in, and was unable to find the bus. Â Aww. Â I’m pretty sure no transit service or company in the states would EVER call customers to check if they were running late. Â We ended up leaving ten minutes later than anticipated, because some other guy was even later. Â Pretty cool, huh? Â Â
I was, however, worn out enough that on the way back, I only noticed two of the four rest breaks. Â Slept straight through the rest of em. Â ^___^Â
In sum then, I wouldn’t mind doing it again. Â Maybe not on a one day trip; it’d be nice to get one solid night’s sleep between the fragmented bus rides, but they’ve got a certain charm going for them.
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This is a bit reminiscent of our Amtrak overnight train to Gallup N. M.
Sounds like quite an experience. Glad to hear you got to see the Tanakas
again.